Pilgrim roads...

Towards the roof of Norway

5th June - 5am, wake to a big blue sky, a full & complete blue sky, those days when it feels good to be alive, proper deep down good, the familiar hangover aches and twinges from the day before dissolve in an instant at the sight of that deep blue canopy, can't wait to hit the road, can't wait to get rolling.

Shower, tea, dried crackers (thanks to the previous guests) bike check, clothes check, final pack hit the road, last look round at the mirror-still lake before slowly rolling down to the edge of town, no more than 250 metres, to the start of highway 51, heading directly north with the early morning sun strong enough to share its warmth, edging along a route edged in a green shadow on the map, to denote a route of naturally beautiful distinction, rolling out under that ceiling of a deep blue splendour, this was surely a grande departe of a grand tour, yet of its own, different kind of splendour.

Five miles of winding flat-to-rolling road, clearing the mind and loosening the legs, following the course of the river flowing down from Oyangen, at times widening into still lakes before disappearing to the west as the road continued north. Twenty miles of continuous climbing, the weight of the back pack seeming to pull down heavier with every mile that passed, further on into the blue, edging closer to breakfast in Beitostolen, a small winter resort that hugged either side of the road, beyond this just a beautifully abstract landscape.

You can check everything, you think you can check everything, all the main things, all the things you consider to be the big risks, you can ask advice, you can go prepared, but there are always things to catch you out, things you can't plan for, things you just don't consider, but should. As the road ascended into town the first supermarket appeared on the left, Co Op Prix opening at 9am, now ten minutes past, the second supermarket the same, the penny starts to drop, rolling 1km back down the road to a bakery-cafe, the only place in town seemingly open, to confirm that today is a Public Holiday, Monday 5th June, you can plan everything, but you can forget to check the calendar. Two large strong black coffees and 'rosinboller' Norwegian fruit buns, with cheese and yogurt, with four cheese and ham 'loaves' for the long road ahead, added weight but necessary.

The road continued to climb, into the strong headwinds, climbing continuously without respite, without any forgiveness other than the growing splendour of a vast mountain landscape to the west, the road arcing round for one last panoramic glimpse of the road travelled. You can check Garmin, you can read a map, you can understand a route profile, but sometimes the constant reality of the ascent, the headwinds, the invisible pull of the back pack can drain your resolve in a short time.

Cresting the pass, between two stone monoliths, a gateway that entrances Bygdin, a silver, mountain-top lake that seemed a vast ocean atop the widest most desolate yet beautiful territory. Descending fast into a vast open bowl through swirling crosswinds, bringing back memories of the 'Glass Elevator' descent into the Californian desert on RAAM, swirling crosswinds that seem to take hold of you, descending into the desert bringing confusing thoughts of approaching an ocean, tricked by the hazy green-tinged ripples of the desert, this time approaching the silver clear ocean in the mountains, how can an ocean exist in the mountains, your mind too tired to make sense of it, too focused to think through it. Headwinds can destroy your thoughts, the worst of all feelings on the road, yet crosswinds in the mountains seem worse, playing vicious games, unbalancing and unsettling you, casting uncertainty in the mind and challenging your self-control to remain balanced, you ride with your greatest resolve, and endurance.

Crossing the roof of Norway

50 miles more, 50 miles of relentless headwind, rolling climbs taking you to the edge of perseverance, determination seeming to ebb and drain with every passing mile, positive thoughts become more challenging, you focus on why you're here, who and what you're riding for, serving to remind you to count your good fortune, to press ahead with courage and fortitude, you start to descend, a rapid long descent, as hard as the climb, the swirling wind never giving a moment of letting go until, finally, a junction, highway 15 heading temporarily east, into the valley bottom flanked by another lake, uplifted by the tailwind that sweeps through to the service station on the edge of Vagamo, a service station packed with people on the road on a public holiday. Refuel, regather and head on across the short steep ascent of the 'cut through' from Holungsoyi to Nord-Sel to be re-united with the E6 and onto Dovre, a planned destination for the day, only to find no cabins, possibly the only place in Norway to have no cabins and only a handful of camper vans, instinct alone tells you that there is no offer of alternative assistance here, you don't know what it is, you just know there's a need to press on, mid-afternoon and on towards the last chance of the day, towards late-afternoon across 40 miles of the E6 to Eysteinkyrkja, a place and a moment that was to prove a turning point, a moment so special, a moment that maybe defined the overall outcome.




Leaving the E6, a right turn to roll freely for 1km along road 29, passing under a white church standing guard over the road, overlooking another vast landscape. Left onto the gravel road to the reception of a large white building, fingers crossed, because there are no other options this late in the day, in this vast remote wilderness. Bike outside, back-pack now welded to a tired body, standing behind an American couple quizzing the elderly lady behind the reception table about the cost of accommodation and lack of restaurant facilities, they take their dilemma to the outside and a large four wheel drive.

"I am looking for a room for the night, just to sleep, I take to the road at 5am in the morning, so it's just to sleep" - the kind helpful, elderly lady offers an 'apartment' for 1200 Krona (£120)

"Just a room to sleep" I just need to sleep.

"Are you a Pilgrim"

Not sure about the question here, but there's a reason for it, there must be, can't think through a response so "yes, I may be"

Pilgrim quarters....

"Where have you come from"

"Oslo"

"Where are you heading"

"Tomorrow, Trondheim, I am leaving early, 5am on the road north"

"Then you are a Pilgrim, you can take the Pilgrim's cabin, it's open, you can shower and rest, there is a restaurant 4km along the track through the woods over there, pointing to the vast expanse of landscape"

'Aiden's' little green wrist band

The kind elderly lady points to a white parting through the woods, saying there's no need to ride along the E6. The lady knows nothing about the overwhelming touch of her act of her kindness, particularly around what would be the demoralising effect of riding back along the road you've travelled, she continues her kindness by saying that she will call the House behind the Cathedral in Trondheim, that I am to stay there, that I am to go into the cafe by the Cathedral and then straight to the House, she promised to call ahead to arrange matters, everything would be in order, just go to the cafe next to the Cathedral. Twenty minutes later after taking in every sensory effect of the cabin, I return to the white house, the door is locked, the kind, helpful elderly lady gone. Twenty minutes of time that can change everything, twenty minutes later and neither this moment nor what was to follow would have happened. You're reminded to count your good fortune, sometimes it arrives in the most unexpected ways, sometimes in the blink of only the slightest opportunity, it gives you hope and new found determination.

Heading back from dinner

Warm shower, change of clothes, hot tea, sitting in the warmth of the late afternoon sun, light sleep sitting on the deck overlooking 'the roof of Norway'. 4km gravel road through the woods to good food, strong black coffee and supplies for the morning, 4km back, check map, check bike, check clothes, gaze at the landscape view from the window, don't want to leave this place, don't want to sleep, just take in every last second of magic, this is truly a place where the magic lies. Pick up texts from Keith &  Fleur, Aiden's parents; my wife Bev & daughters Meg & Sarah, and my mum, all back home in the UK, good things come together in so many ways.

9pm, lights out, beneath layers of blankets, asleep in seconds, a deep, healthily fatigued sleep.

Day 2 - 137 miles - one of the hardest & most magical days ever on a bike, when you have no idea of what the day really holds or where you will end up, but through the kindness of people and perseverance, good fortune finds its way to you....

Long road ahead

4th June - 4am wake up, good sleep, feel ok, first thought is the weather, quick glance outside confirms a grey, slightly overcast sky, but thankfully no rain through the night so dry roads, a positive first moment in the long day ahead. Quick shower and dress, normal bib shorts plus the all too familiar practice of a second cut-down pair for added protection, to buy you a few extra days before the soreness and pain take hold. Back pack checked, packed as sparingly as possible. Bike box packed with unwanted or unneeded items and taken down to reception, their kind agreement to store the box until my return in around 10 days time, no extra charge for the service and no need to book a room for the return date, but still made the decision to reserve room, the Gardermoen Airport Hotel, a kind introduction to Norway.

Over to breakfast just before 5am and an unsurprising mix of people even at such an early hour, hotel staff, aircrew, travellers heading out to catch early flights. Good food and back to the room with one last strong black coffee to get the bike, one last look round and that was it, a moment that always seems to me like that there's no going back, you close out on perhaps the last predictable moment before heading into the unknown.

Back pack on and a quick smile and goodbye, nice that they have no idea where you're heading or what you're taking on. Gently rolling away from the hotel reception felt like one of those ramped starts to a time trial, but no countdown, no timed departure, no interval, just an empty deserted road ahead, 5.45am Sunday morning, Oslo still yet to rise.

Riding along the first section of the E6, a road that was to become my main companion over the next six days, a few miles in a westerly direction to get to road 120, heading north through forested roads, along the west side of the Hurdalssjoen lake, a misty damp morning, soulless and empty of life, solo in every respect. Almost with immediate effect you start to find annoying little problems, the interference between the back of the helmet and top pocket of the back-pack, seemingly impossible to adjust either item, you just carry on riding thinking it will eventually go away, but you still ride with head held in an ever so slightly uncomfortable position, you ride on. Riding north along the lake edge followed a gently rolling profile until reaching road 180 to again head in a westerly direction across longer bigger climbs and through the first light shower of the day, not quite enough to dig out the water proof jacket. Sight of the road opening up at the junction with the E4 was one of those small uplifting moments, every junction and change of road seems like an achievement, a new road, new energy, new sense of purpose. The decision to head north long the E4 to Gjovik rather than the option of a short section south to pick up road 34 north.

Following the E4 was a delight, back to rolling roads away from the climbs that seem to come with roads that cross east-west, passing lake Einafjorden with beautiful clear backdrop view the Vidalen mountains, forgetting it was still only very early morning all but for the solitude of the deserted Sunday-morning roads. Onto Gjovik, rolling into the edge of town to pick up the start of road 33, a new junction, uplifted again, a change of direction heading west. Stopped for a couple of strong black coffees and pastries, my first taste of a Norwegian fruit bun, the first of what would prove to be many more over coming days, a quick check of the map and miles covered on the Garmin and then off, route 33 towards Fluberg.


The next 20-30 miles proved tough, a really long climb over mountains in the Vardalsasen area, seemed relentless, compounded by another shower, this time resorting to the weather proof jacket, not the greatest apparel but finally necessary. Onto Odnes passing Randsfjorden towards Bjorgo Burflat and the last big junction of the day, a wide open road intersection, sweeping right onto the E16 and the final stretch of the day, heading north once more, rolling flat road which lifted the speed from the last two-three hours. By now early afternoon and more traffic but that uplifting feeling that comes with knowing the destination is in sight, the town of Fagernes, a left turn by the lake off the E16 and into town, passing hotels that were for sure way beyond the allocated budget, to find a campsite and the offer of a Hytter next to the lake, perfect setting, a near perfect end to being on the road for nearly 10 hours. Sitting under the canopy of the cabin, with hot tea the rain came within minutes, a 45 minute torrential downpour, your spirits drop at the thought of this being the next morning, with limited supplies, limited clothing and a long day in the saddle.

Then, the sky changed, not just for an instant but for what would prove to be the next five days, the E6 and blue sky becoming the two closest companions on the road, sitting there again watching the double rainbow appear from the lake, you can't help but count your good fortune.

Eat, rest, long hot shower, bike check, clothes check and asleep by 9pm, proper deep sleep.

Day 1 - 130 miles

Room with a view

'Rainbow stripes'

Hytter by the lake

Monday morning!

Oslo bound...take two!

Saturday 3rd June, backpack and bike box packed, checked, double checked and checked again, pretty much too late to go back through what can only be described as a general packing inventory, seems to be the same content for every trip, although this time cut by at least half to factor in the reduced weight and volume for a fully unsupported challenge. The road that lay head would certainly feel longer and slower with unnecessary weight.

Left home around 6.30am kindly driven to Stansted by my wife Bev, a short 45 minute drive along the back country roads I'm so familiar with on a bike. Into the drive-through drop off point at the airport, three minutes is all you're given, almost no time for proper good byes, hundreds of people partly distracted by the severity of the penalty fees that hang over one of those special moments. As the car disappeared out of sight thoughts turned to the vagaries of the check in and security check procedure, always a slight doubt around check in surcharges or whether the bike box would really be accepted, but to the credit of Ryan air a completely seamless, slick & courteous fifteen minutes, first in line, boarding pass issued, back pack cleared for the cabin (not sure how this got through, the size and weight of a small car!) and bike box checked in.

Two hours north east and on the approach to Oslo, with an admission that, having checked ten times over, still carried an underlying anxiety of landing in an outlying airport, 100 miles from the hotel and start of the Arctic 1000 route, even walking through the airport it was difficult to completely rule out some false start, maybe an onward train journey or expensive taxi ride. But all proved just as slick as earlier that morning, directed to the bus stand for no more than five minute wait and ten minute drive.

Checked in and room allocated, second floor back of the hotel facing green hills and woods, ten minutes from the airport and near serenity. Bike box unpacked and re-assembly completely complete, another anxiety over, no missing parts, no damage. Time to walk a short distance alone the E6 immediately outside the hotel and the planned start point for the long miles ahead, re-assured by the receptionist that it was permissible to ride the E6 even on the outskirts of Oslo. The hotel is located on a side road, parallel to the E6 for a short distance, this couldn't have been better, at least the first mile effectively on a closed road, everything looked fine for the early morning start that lay ahead.

Back to the room, shower and rest. Dinner proved to be an introduction to one of those well known talked about aspects of Norway, the cost of dining out, cheapest option in the menu, steak, fries & soft drink, £45, more costly than travelling from Essex to Oslo, the budget constraints could kick in tomorrow.

Lights off just after 9pm, all considered a pretty damn good start for what lay ahead, you count your good fortune in whatever way it arrives.  

 

 

...life is full of surprises!

As planned, the Arctic 1000 cycling challenge hit the road in the early hours of Saturday 4th March, heading out from the UK for the long drive north to Oslo, all went well and to plan passing through France, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany, Denmark and into Sweden.

Heading north through Sweden along the motorway that runs the entire length of the west coast all seemed fine, around one hour from the Norwegian border and just under two hours from Oslo mid afternoon on Sunday. The next thirty minutes were completely unexpected, unforeseen and a somewhat indescribable sudden change of events.

From driving past green fields and through the emerging spring landscape of north Sweden conditions everywhere changed quite immediately and without warning. Watching the weather forecast on tv from a hostel in Gothenburg the following morning confirmed that north Sweden had been hit by an extreme band of winter weather sweeping across the country on Sunday afternoon, the very moment of passing through.  Conditions made the motorway impassable, the side roads invisible, with only the largest and most well equipped trucks being let through to head further north towards Oslo. Being led off the motorway by police just north of Gothenburg the only option, given the remoteness of the area, was to head back to the city also caught up in the conditions.

Advice was being given to motorists that conditions were forecast to be the same for the next two or three days, with vehicle movement further north from the city being scrutinised by police. With this unforeseen delay and the uncertainty of not knowing exactly how & when it would be possible to get across the border by road, different options for continuing were considered, hiring a different vehicle in Gothenburg, switching from road to ferry out of Gothenburg to Kristiansand, all of which were possible but with big cost & time implications without any guarantee of having sufficient time or capability to maintain to the absolute focus of the cycling challenge.

So, all things considered of the immediate situation and wanting to keep alive the real aim of being out here, to ride 1000 miles in 7 days fundraising for Aiden Mitchell and Action Medical Research, the big & immediate decision was taken to abandon with the aim of returning in the next few weeks, same challenge, same route, same landscape just different timing. Heading out of Gothenburg early on the Monday morning was difficult, road and motorway conditions being far from ideal, but driving back south without delay to Calais, at no point did this seem the wrong decision, the main thing being to the continuation of the Arctic 1000 solo cycling challenge in recognising, and continuing to recognise, the support and fundraising that has already started and that will hopefully continue for two such deserving causes.

Finally, an apology, for what almost certainly will be a very large carbon footprint, driving 1000 miles north over two days and 1000 miles south over one very long day, to see seven countries through the constraints of a car windscreen for an unexpected and somewhat brief stay in a hostel, without sheets, in the middle of Gothenburg, a city that we never expected to visit.

This was into the unknown & unexpected for certain, a different to planned outcome on this occasion and needing to readjust the plan to head out again in a few weeks time to see out the same cycling challenge, the same route, the same fundraising purpose, life is full of surprises.....!

....surprising acts of kindness!

Aiden Mitchell was born in June 2014, he suffered a traumatic birth which resulted in 28 minutes of CPR before he was able to take his first breath, wrapped in an ice blanket for 72 hours to stop the spread of brain damage, he was then slowly warmed to room temperature, medical interventions brought about by the work of Action Medical Research (www.action.org.uk).

Aiden is now just over 2 years old and the challenges he is going to face become more apparent, being diagnosed with HIE Grade 3 cerebral palsy causes him to have low trunk and high tone on his arms, Aiden cannot sit unaided or walk, although intensive physiotherapy and specialist equipment enable him to make real progress, much of the specialist treatment that benefits Aiden is only available in the USA.

I got to know to know Keith & Fleur, Aiden's parents, through our connections with Action Medical Research, and from this got to know more about Aiden's story and their very brave & courageous journey for Aiden.

The challenges of riding a bicycle, even long distances through challenging environments and landscapes, seem somewhat minor in comparison to the challenges that Keith, Fleur and Aiden face into, something that, as I have got to know them more, they do so with such unconditional good grace, kindness and generosity. amazingly for others aswell as their own situation.

So, the endeavours of a long distance solo cycling challenge will hopefully encourage the support and acts of kindness from others, to become part of Aiden's opportunity. 

http://www.just4children.org/children-helped-2016/the-amazing-Aiden

A very big thank you to @tonyfisherlive for today's coverage on @BBCEssex 

....a year in the making, and training!

From the beautifully tough training roads of the Lake District, Cumbria and winter roads of Essex, a solo cycling challenge that has been a year in the making and preparation, to the beautifully tough roads of the Atlantic Coast and the Arctic Highway of Norway.

...and so it begins, on road and ice!

Sunday, August 2, 2015, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, California USA

'into the unkown is where the magic lies'

Words from the end of 'TransAm' at the Golden Gate Bridge the finishing point of a 3000 mile 14 day self planned solo cycling challenge across the USA, Washington DC to San Francisco.

For Action Medical Research and all of the good things that come out of their work...

.....the end!

The purpose of TransAm 3000 was to raise awareness and funding for Action Medical Research, to continue a long history of support into finding breakthrough medical cures for illnesses and disease that affect babies and young children.

and now the beginning....!

Monday, March 6, 2017 Arctic Highway Oslo, Norway

After a year of riding slighly shorter roads and smaller mountains the time has arrived to take to the road again with another solo cycling challenge, quite different to previous cycling challenges in crossing the USA and solo riding all 21 Stages of the Tour de France, this time heading further north to the much colder climate, remote expanses and  challenging landscape of Norway. 

The aim is to ride 1000 miles in 7 days, crossing the Arctic Circle at latitude 66.5 degress north and, subject to the severity of winter & early spring weather conditions, to ride as far north as possible before handing over to Dr Camila Benouali who will then ski to the North Pole as the second leg of a combined challenge, both of which support of the UK charity Action Medical Research, a team of truly dedicated people behind a cause that touches & benefits so many young lives, like that of Aiden Mitchell, a very courageous little boy!  

Through the kind support of so many people to get this combined challenge onto the road and ice! our
aim is to complete the self planned challenges to raise valuable funding for such a deserving cause, and to share our stories along the way...